The whales are here: how to experience humpback season in Puerto López and Ayampe
6 min readPlayaMagma
From June to September, thousands of humpback whales cross the Pacific to sing, mate and give birth off this coast. Here's when to go, where to leave from and what to bring.
You never forget the first time you see a humpback breach. First it's a blow far away, a little white cloud over the sea. Then a huge fin slapping the surface. And suddenly, without warning, thirty tons of animal launch into the air and crash back down with a boom you feel in your chest. The whole boat screams. Every time.
It's July, and if you look out to sea from Ayampe with a bit of patience, there's a good chance you'll see them. Here's our guide to enjoying the season stress-free.
Why do they come here?
Humpback whales travel thousands of kilometers from the icy waters of Antarctica to the Ecuadorian Pacific. They come to mate and give birth in warmer, calmer water. The males literally sing: long, complex songs that carry for kilometers underwater. Pure courtship.
When is the season?
- Official season: June to September.
- Peak sightings: July and August, which is right now.
- Whale sharks also show up in the region from June to October, and dolphins during the dry season.
Where to leave from
Puerto López, about 17 km north of Ayampe, is the hub for whale-watching tours and has the most operators. The boat trip takes about an hour and a half. There are also departures from Salango, and some local operators leave straight from Ayampe. Sometimes you don't even need a boat: the whales can be seen near the Pyramid Rock off Ayampe.
Bring something warm. Everyone shows up thinking sun and beach, and in July the sea wakes up chilly. The Humboldt Current that brings the whales also brings cool air.
Pair it with Isla de la Plata
Many tours from Puerto López combine whale watching with Isla de la Plata, about 40 km offshore. There you walk among blue-footed boobies, frigatebirds and albatrosses, with sea lions as neighbors. It's a long, salty day you'll remember.
And back at the farm
After a day at sea there's nothing like coming back to the forest shade. A hot shower, the hammock, and at night the campfire with people who also saw the whale jump and can't stop talking about it. PlayaMagma is 20–30 minutes from Puerto López: close enough to make the early tour, far enough from the noise of the port.
The season ends in September. If you want to come, don't leave it for next year: message us on WhatsApp and we'll help you line up your dates with a tour.
Feeling the pull?
Message us on WhatsApp and we'll help you plan your dates, your days and your cabin.
